Java, East Java, Trowulan. Candi Bajang Ratu, a gate from the 14th century, close to Trowulan and Mojokerto. The wall it was once a part of is gone a long time ago. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

About one hour by car from Surabaya you will find the city of Mojokerto and just east of this the Trowulan village. Trowulan was in the 14th century the capital of the great Majapahit empire, once the mightiest kingdom on Java and the first to control the entire Indonesian archipelago. Majapahit’s rule lasted from 1294 to the beginning of the 16th century. The Majapahit palace was supposedly a large structure surrounded by high walls with guard towers.

Java, East Java, Trowulan. Sugar canes are an important crop in this fertile area. In the background some high mountains. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Inside the walls there was a small town. The location was not a coincidence, this was a very rich agricultural area with a large population and large resources. Unfortunately there is not much left of the monuments and buildings from this era today, most of them were built of wood and red bricks that has eroded.

Java, East Java, Trowulan. Candi Tikus, this was the queens personal pool. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Nevertheless there are some smaller ruins in the area, one of the most famous is Candi Tikus (the rat temple). It got it’s name simply because there were so many rat nests that appeared during the excavation. Most likely it was a bathing place for the queen. Other ruins are mostly foundations and gates built by stone, like Bajang Ratu.

Java, East Java, Trowulan. Candi Tikus not far from Trowulan. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

There are museums both in Trowulan and Mojokerto telling the history of this once powerful empire. The Trowulan museum contains many interesting artifacts and descriptions of ruins and other remains of Majapahit on East Java. The museum is open daily except for Monday and is a good starting point in order to learn more about the history of Majapahit and this area.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. The local perahu-boats can be very colourful. The big eyes in the front is supposed to help the boat navigate through the darkness. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Padangbai is a popular place to stay for travelers who are on their way to or from Lombok. There are also public boats leaving regularly from here to Nusa Penida. The village is located in a lovely bay, with the large ferry terminal and a long beach surrounded by green hills. A large part of the population are fishermen, indicated by the large number of boats along the beach. The water here is too polluted to swim in, but not far away there are nice and clean beaches, like the white Pantai Kecil only 15 minutes walk southwards.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. Fishing boats and children playing in the sand. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

North of the town, in the “Blue Lagoon Bay”, is a beach which is great for snorkeling, with lovely corals and fish. 10-15 minutes with boat from Padangbai, in the large Amuk bay, there are several diving spots. Closer to Padangbai, only a few hundred meters from the beach, is the Pura Jepun reef with a large variety of fish. You can rent boat and diving equipment in Padangbai.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. Most of the restaurants and accommodation are located along the narrow streets by the beach. The city is surrounded by green hills well suited for hiking. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Some visitors enjoy Padangbai so much they settle down here for a while, and consider it as a better alternative than nearby Candidasa. You can not expect to find any fashionable hotels or restaurants in this area, which is popular among backpackers who like to meet other travelers and exchange their experiences from traveling in Asia.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. The Padangbai port with the ferries to Lombok in the background. Some tourism here as well. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

There are several reasonable priced hotels and restaurants close to the beach, especially the seafood is both cheap and fresh. There is a small Muslim society around the mosque near the harbor, here you can buy other kinds of food.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. This small street that runs parallell to the beach. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

To visit Padangbai coming from the south you turn right about 15 km northeast of Goa Lawah, then continue 2 km to the coast. If you’re planning to go directly to Lombok there is a ferry leaving every second hour from 02.00 to 20.00, the crossing takes about 4 hours. The price is reasonable, even at first class which includes air-condition. You should keep an eye on your belongings on the ferry, theft is known to occur.

Bali, Karangasem, Padangbai. The ferry terminal in Padangbai, where you can board a ferry to Lombok. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The hills around Padangbai are great for hiking, on a clear day you can enjoy the view towards Nusa Penida and Gunung Agung. The village is also close to Tenganan, a traditional Bali Aga village. If you’re heading further east from here there is a nice beach between Padangbai and Candidasa called Balina, where you can swim or join a local boat to go fishing.

• SPOT South and east Bali

Bali, Karangasem, Gunung Agung. The summit of Gunung Agung covered by clouds (from airplane). (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Gunung Agung is Bali’s highest and most sacred mountain. It is 3.142 meter high and can be seen from almost everywhere on Bali and from the neighboring islands, but most of the time it is covered by clouds. The best time of year to see the mountain is August to September and of course early in the morning.

The height is disputed because of the last eruption 17th of March 1963, which by some is believed to have blown off the highest top. Gunung Agung is now said to be 3.014 meters, and the top is today a 500 meter wide crater.

Bali, Denpasar, Sanur. Sanur beach with Gunung Agung in the background (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The 1963 eruption killed about 2.000 people and made about 100.000 people homeless. The entire East Bali became isolated, and crops all over Bali were destroyed, which led to famine. Much of the population had to move to West Bali or Sulawesi. Fortunately Gunung Agung has fallen to sleep again, and today it is possible to climb to the top. You must first find a guide who is not too terrified of the mountain spirits, in that case he might leave you alone halfway to the top.

The highest peak is on the western side above Pura Besakih, the most important temple on Bali. If you like to say you climbed all the way to the top you should start from there.

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Senggigi. Bali and Gunung Agung in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Other popular places to start the trek are the Muncan and Selan villages on the south side, where there is a road all the way up to the Pura Pasar Agung temple. This is the shortest way, but you cannot reach the highest peak from here. You will find a guide and accommodation at all of these places, and also in Tirta Gingga, a popular spot for hikers. The best time for trekking is July to September when the climate is relatively dry. The time to the top takes about 4-6 hours, start early in the morning before sunrise. During festivals and ceremonies in the Besakih temple it is not allowed to climb the mountain.

• SPOT Gunung Agung and southeast Bali. Agung is located southeast of the characteristic Batur-caldera. Old signs of lava-streams is clearly visible on the northern side of the mountain

South Sulawesi, Makassar. Pantai Losari with it's many foodstalls. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Makassar has a population of about 950.000 and is the provincial capital of south Sulawesi. From 1971 to 1999, the city was named Ujung Pandang, and the two names are often used interchangeably. It is  the largest city on Sulawesi, and has for centuries been the commercial center of trade for Sulawesi and the eastern Indonesian islands. Major goods exported from here are textiles, paper, processed food, building materials and a variety of agricultural products.

The majority of the population in this region are Muslim. The Portuguese first arrived here in 1512 and settled until 1667, when they were forced to leave by the Dutch. The Dutch called the city Makassar, and from here the Dutch had control over most of the ships that sailed between west and east Indonesia.

South Sulawesi, Makassar. The old harbor in Makassar (Ujung Pandang). Only the Pinisi sailing vessels offload and onload their cargo here. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Bugis people originate from this region, and are in some areas just known as “sea gypsies”. The Bugis are famous boat builders and sailors, and they have in ancient times probably gone as far as Madagascar and north Australia to trade their goods. Later on they also settled in other coastal areas of Indonesia, in particular on Sumatra and Riau. The old Pelabuhan Paotere harbor are well worth a visit, the traditional Bugis sail ships called Perahu arrive and depart with goods to and from other Indonesian islands.

South Sulawesi, Makassar. Pantai Losari. Here you can buy good sate and other food. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Pantai Losari is the name of the ocean side promenade in the town center with a large number of local “warung”, where you can have something to eat. There are some modern hotels here, where you can relax on a cafe overlooking the ocean and enjoy the sunset.

The city has a museum, a university and an old Dutch fort, called Vredenburg or Fort Rotterdam, an impressing memorial of the colonial time close by the harbor. Inside the fort there is a museum with artifacts from large parts of Sulawesi. In addition there are several colonial buildings in the city, like the Governor’s Residence. In the southeast part of the city there are several memorials of the once so mighty Gowa empire, like the resting place of Sultan Hasanuddin who ruled Gowa from the middle of the 17th century and had to surrender to the Dutch.

Outside the grave you will see the Pelantikan stone, where the rulers of Gowa was crowned. A few km further south is the old Sultan palace Benteng Sungguminasa, now a museum.

South Sulawesi, Makassar. Hotel at the waterfront in Makassar. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Makassar is often used as a starting point for expeditions into the interior of Sulawesi, especially to the famous Toraja land (Tanah Toraja) on central Sulawesi. Makassar has an airport with daily flights to Jakarta and Manado. There are several facilities here, with a large variety of seafood restaurants. A large Chinese community here make sure you will find a variety of Chinese food as well.

Maluku, Central Maluku, Banda Sea. This is a tiny island on a large reef in the Banda Sea, in the center of the reef a lagoon (from helicopter) (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Banda Sea is one of Indonesia’s deepest oceans, at the most more than 6.500 m deep. It spans a large area, all the way to Sulawesi in the west. At the center of the sea south of Seram there are a small group of ten islands plus some uninhabited small corral islands, called the Banda Islands. The most important are Banda Besar, Neira and Gunung Api (“the mountain of fire”). All of the islands are of volcanic origin.

Gunung Api has an active volcano at 658 meter above sea level, and the entire island looks like one circular volcanic cone raising straight up from the sea. Neira is the economic center of the islands, while Banda Besar is the largest, 12 km long and 3 km wide. The volcanic soil on the islands are very fertile, and an abundance of plants, fruits, vegetables and trees are grown here.

Maluku, Central Maluku, Banda Sea. The mosque has a central place in this village on an island in the Banda Sea (from helicopter). (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Banda Islands were first occupied by Portugal in 1512. The Portuguese had control until early in the 17th century, when they were thrown out by the Dutch. Banda Besar was attacked by the Dutch in 1621 and several “unfriendly” Bandanese were massacred, while some fled to the Kai islands. The Dutch started to build plantations, mostly on Banda Besar and Ai, and controlled the islands for 200 years until the British occupied them for a short period during the Napoleon wars. After this they were largely neglected by the Dutch. Spices are still grown here, but the trade lost its importance when the spice production spread to other colonies.

The British built a fort here in 1601 and were for a period exporting nutmeg to Europe from the small island of Run, one of the smallest and most remote Banda Islands, and by this they undermined the Dutch spice monopoly. The Dutch desperately wanted to get hold of this island, but didn’t quite know how without declaring a war against the British. In America the Dutch had bought the small Manhattan island from the local indians for a cheap price, but except for fishing they could not see any value in this purchase. The wise old men in Amsterdam and London therefore suggested a trade, and through a deal in Breda in 1667 New Amsterdam became New York and the Dutch finally got their small spice island. If they only knew what development this area they just got rid of should see the following centuries. A British official later said that “while the British lost their famous nutmeg they got the biggest apple in return”.

Maluku, Central Maluku, Banda Sea. This is a tiny island on a large reef in the Banda Sea, in the center of the reef a lagoon (from helicopter). (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Almost all of the Banda islands are surrounded by beautiful corral reefs with a large variety of fish. This is a great area for snorkeling, diving and sightseeing, some good accommodation are also available. There are a few old forts and colonial buildings here, some rebuilt and some in decay. Another attraction is to climb Gunung Api or just relax on one of the lovely beaches here.

Most of the facilities for travelers are located in Bandaneira, the largest city on the Banda islands, on the Neira island. Here is also the most important harbor and airport.

Maluku, South East Maluku, Aru. The Aru islands are low and covered with thick forests and swamps. This is one of the eastern islands (from helicopter) (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The group of islands called Aru are located just west of West Papua in the Arafura Sea, which stretches all the way to West Papua to the east and Australia to the south. Aru is the easternmost group of islands in Maluku, they consists of about 85 islands totaling an area of 8.563 sq. km. The largest island, Tanabesar (also called Wokam), is in reality six different islands, only separated by five narrow channels. Tanabesar is 177 km long and 77 km wide.

The most important city on the islands is Dobo on the smaller Wamar island. Dobo has a small airport and is the major port on the Aru islands. The Aru population is a mix of Malay and Papua, of which a majority still hang on to local, traditional religions. On the western islands some of the inhabitants are Christian and Muslim.

Total population on Aru is about 40.000. The main occupation is agriculture and fishing, most important products are sago, rice, coconuts, sugar, tobacco and maize. The islands are difficult to explore and do not receive many tourists, most of the facilities for travelers can be found in Dobo.

Maluku, South East Maluku, Aru. Nice beach on one of the eastern Aru islands. Most of the coastline is however covered by swamps (from helicopter) (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

None of the islands are mountainous, most of them are covered in thick forests. The coastal areas are mostly swamps, but in between there are also areas with beautiful beaches. The wildlife is mainly Papuan or Australian, with a majority of marsupial species. Here is also many rare species of Birds of Paradise, feathers from these are sold as a source of income. Crocodiles can be found all over Aru.

The Dutch first came here in 1606 and the islands were after 1623 included in the Dutch colony. They were occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and later returned to the Dutch again. Aru became a part of the Republic of Indonesia in 1949.

Tirta Gangga is a small village built on an altitude of about 500 meters, seven km northwest of Amlapura. Tirta Gangga means “water from the Ganges”, and the place is known for it’s “water palace” and beautiful surroundings.

In many people’s opinion this is among the most beautiful areas on Bali.

Bali, Karangasem, Tirta Gangga. The small Tirta Gangga village is situated among fertile ricefields. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Lately Tirta Gangga has become increasingly popular as a base for exploration of East Bali. Many visitors prefer to go hiking or biking in the lovely surroundings, or even rent a guide here to take them to the top of Gunung Agung or other nearby mountains. The walk to Gunung Agung’s top takes about 4 hours, including one hour of car transport to the starting point.

Bali, Karangasem. The Tirta Gangga water palace. This pool is not for swimming, but you can float around here in a small boat. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The village is maybe most famous for the water palace, built by the last king of Karangasem (see Amlapura); Raja Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut. Tirta Gangga was one of the king’s favorite places to go for relaxation. A similar palace can be found in Ujung five km south of Amlapura.

The palace in Tirta Gangga was built in 1947 and take it’s water from a holy spring. The complex is made of several pools, one is open for the local population and very popular among the local children, another is open for tourists.

Bali, Karangasem. The Tirta Gangga water palace was a place for rest and recreation for the king and his family. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The village has no large number of accommodation and restaurants, but outside the high season there should be room for everybody who find their way here. The prices are reasonable, there are no five-star hotels here.

If you continue further north from Tirta Gangga you will climb even higher in altitude and have a beautiful view over fertile rice fields, with the blue ocean in the background and dense forest behind you.

Bali, Karangasem, Tirta Gangga. A beautiful view north of Tirta Gangga. Green, fertile ricefields and in the background a blue sea. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The vegetation becomes more scarce after Culik, but many decide to continue to Tulamben on the northeast coast, mainly to dive on the wreck of the American freighter “Liberty”, which was torpedoed by the Japanese outside Lombok in 1942.

Another alternative from Tirta Gangga can be to walk to the easternmost mountain on Bali, Gunung Lempuyang (1.058 meters). Pura Lempuyang, an important temple, is located at the foot of the mountain. This is a state temple, “sad-kahyangan”, with the same status as temples like Uluwatu and Besakih.

• SPOT South and east Bali

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. Tenganan is located on the fertile hills stretching up to Gunung Agung. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

When Majapahit conquered Bali in 1343 there were some Balinese who did not accept this change of rule, and therefore built their own villages in remote areas. The descendants of these people are today known as Bali Aga or Bali Mula, meaning “the original Balinese”. They still live in villages like Tenganan in East Bali or Trunyan at the shores of the Batur lake.

Many of the old traditions are still maintained, and it is still possible to see their unique ceremonies and dance performances. The Tenganan people are convinced they are descendants of the gods. Even if the Bali Aga people today are Hindus they still practice a religion which is partly a heritage from pre-Hindu times, with obvious Polynesian characteristics.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. Tenganan is located on the fertile hills stretching up to Gunung Agung. An old woman in a Tenganans street. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The holy “Usana Bali” text tells the Bali Aga to take care of this land, to honor the descendants of their creator; Batara Indra. This can explain why they still hang on to the old ways of life, even if modern symbols like television, telephone and motorbikes have entered the village. Prior to the Indonesian liberation Tenganan was surrounded by a high wall, still today you have to pass through a gate to enter. Land and common property belong to the entire village community.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. A house in Tenganan. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The rice fields are usually leased to the neighboring villages for the price of half the harvest. In that way the Tenganan people can concentrate about more artistic pursuits like weaving, dance, music and religious ceremonies. Some do also own business in nearby Candidasa, and the people here is said to be among the richest on Bali.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. A narrow path between the buildings, most of the houses have thatched roofs. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

More than 100 families today live in the village, under strict laws. Until recently it was not allowed to marry anyone from outside the village without moving away from here. Because of this there has not been any growth in the population. The village counsel, in close cooperation with the gods, decided that the newcomer could undergo a mock cremation ritual from which he or she is brought back as a Tenganian, and so be allowed to live in the village.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. The buildings are mainly built of bricks and stone. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The village has a characteristic architecture, and cover a rectangular area of about 250 by 500 meters. The buildings are mainly made of stone and thatched with straw, many has the shape of a longhouse. Tenganan do resemble primitive villages on Nias and Sumba. Wide streets cut through the village, between the houses there are narrow paths. Here is of course a temple, Pura Jero, on a hilltop at the back of the village. Around Tenganan there are some smaller versions of this village.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. Tenganan is famous for its unique ikat textiles. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Tenganan is open for visitors who come here to look and buy souvenirs. It is known for the unique “double ikat” produced here, called “Kamben Geringsing” (“flaming cloths”). Kamben Geringsing is woven with a complicated, traditional technique, and is used only for ceremonial purposes. On Bali this is a sacred textile; a protection against evil spirits and illness.

Because it is not worked on continuously and because the coloring process is so involved, it can take up to seven years to complete a fine piece of geringsing. These pieces are generally only sold upon the death of the owner. The ones sold to tourists are unfortunately of much simpler quality, but is still a popular souvenir. You can watch the production in one of the few houses where this old craft is still known.

Bali, Karangasem, Tenganan. A traditional Bali Aga village. Tenganan is located on the fertile hills stretching up to Gunung Agung. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Other products you can by here are the so called Lontar books, made from the leaves of the Lontar palm. The books contain artistic drawings and poems from Hindu epics, it can take a month to produce one book with only five pages.

Tenganan is located not far from the main road between Semarapura and Amlapura, before Candidasa there is a sign, turn left and drive about 3 km inland. The closest place to stay is Candidasa, five km away.

• SPOT South and east Bali

Bali, Klungkung, Goa Lawah. The bat cave. A Shiva temple with shrines guards the entrance. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

There is no doubt why Goa Lawah, the bat cave, has got this name. Thousands of noisy bats fill the air in and around the cave, with a sharp smell of bat droppings covering the ground in a thick layer.

It is also said that pythons live inside the cave, feeding on the bats. The entrance to the sacred cave is at the foot of a hill.

Bali, Klungkung, Goa Lawah. The bat cave. Some of the thousands of bats. A noisy and smelly place. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

According to legends it continue all the way to the base of Gunung Agung via an underwater river, and surfaces inside the Pura Goa temple (the cave temple) within the Besakih temple complex, about 25 km away.

A legend describe how a prince of Mengwi once entered the cave and came out in Besakih, but later nobody has tried to repeat this journey.

Bali, Klungkung, Goa Lawah. The bat cave. The entrance to the cave is behind these temple buildings. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Today it is not allowed to enter the cave, which may be fortunate. This is also home of Naga Basuki, the mythical and sacred dragon of the Agung mountain, caretaker of the earth’s equilibrium. He is honored with offerings in the temple outside the entrance.

A Shiva temple guards the entrance, with several shrines covered in bat droppings. Pura Goa Lawah is like Goa Gajah one of the oldest attractions on Bali, probably dating all the way back to 1007 AD, founded by the holy man Empu Kuturan. A meeting should have taken place here in 1904 where the princes of Bali made a plan to stop the Dutch invasion.

Bali, Klungkung, Goa Lawah. The bat cave. The temple buildings in front of the cave is of newer date. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Pura Goa Lawah is one of the most important state temples on the island. The temple buildings in front of the cave is new, similar to other newer temples on Bali.

The site has undoubtedly become a tourist trap, with many souvenir stalls and very persistent hawkers. When you have fought your way through this you will see an interesting place, but probably not be able to hang around for long because of the smelly and noisy bats. After the visit you can have a relaxing walk on the beach just opposite the main road, with an excellent view towards Nusa Penida.

Bali, Klungkung, Goa Lawah. The bat cave. A Shiva temple with shrines guards the entrance. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Goa Lawah is located along the main road on the south east coast of Bali, about 9 km east of Semarapura (Klungkung). This is an interesting road along the coast where you can enjoy hills, forests and rice fields.

• SPOT South and east Bali

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Village life, Sasak style. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

A visit to a traditional Sasak village is a necessary part of your trip to Lombok. There are two villages like this a few kilometers north of Kuta, called Rembitan and Sade. Even if some of these traditional villages today may have become tourist traps a visit can be an interesting experience.

All the guides, souvenir sellers and donations to the village is something you will have to tolerate, this is an important income and maybe you help preserve a culture which otherwise would have disappeared?

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Sade village. A sasak child playing in the rain. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Rumors has it that Sade is built by the government just to trick money from the tourists, but this is probably not true; the people here are following the old “desa adat” traditions, even if they in some ways have adapted to modern times. The population is about 500, who makes a living of farming and selling “ikat”-textiles to the tourists. The inhabitants has to follow very strict rules, it is not allowed to marry outside the village and they are following the Wektu Telu religion, a form of Islam mixed with Hindu and old animist beliefs.

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Lumbung. A storage for rice and other food, called lumbung. Sade village (Bjorn Grotting)

There are only three types of buildings in Sade (three is a very important number in the Wektu Telu religion); a large “beruga” or traditional ceremony hall with six pillars, “lumbung” with four pillars for storage of rice and other food, and “bale tani” which is used as living quarters. The roofs are covered by alang-alang (elephant grass) and constructed in order to keep the temperature inside cool on hot days and warm on cooler days. Other Sasak villages has tried to use bricks for construction, but these houses proved to be humid and unhealthy.

The buildings are made of three main components, wood for the pillars and the framework, bamboo for the walls and alang-alang for the roof. No nails or tools of metal is used during the construction period, still the buildings are quite solid and will give sufficient protection against the weather and wild animals. Each house is between 4 to 6 meter long, and split in three sections; kitchen, sleeping room and living room.

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Sade village. A Sasak family in a traditional Sasak house. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The start of the construction of a new house is taken seriously, first all necessary materials and tools have to be gathered, then a “kyai” (a religious teacher) is consulted to find the best day to start. Normally this day falls on a date with an odd number, and the event is announced by beating on a bamboo gong in the village so everybody knows what’s going on and can give a helping hand. The first day all framework and pillars are expected to be completed, if not this will bring bad luck. ¨

A kyai spread seeds on the site at the end of the first day and perform some special prayers. The ceremony ends with a dinner where everyone takes part. A properly built Sasak house can last more than ten years.

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Drying of rice. In the background a beruga, a TV set is sponsored by the government, which can draw 200 people here every evening. Sade village. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

In old days the villagers only lived of the fish they could catch in the sea and the few cattle they owned. Only during the wet season were they able to grow something on the rice fields, if the rain was delayed famine occurred all over the island. To have some alternative income the women started to weave, and today these ikat-textiles are increasingly popular among the tourists. More modern methods has made farming possible also in the dry season.

Nusa Tenggara, Lombok, Sade. Sade village. The jak fruit is a close relative to breadfruit, and can be very large. It is eatable and tastes quite good. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

A traditional Sasak family do not live exactly as we are used to, the head of the family do not normally sleep inside the house. The men is supposed to sleep outside under the stars, in a lumbung or on a balcony outside the house. Only women and children will sleep inside. When a boy is 12 he must follow his fathers example.

• SPOT South Lombok