Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. Manado harbour with a lighthouse on the pier. Manado Tua, an extinct volcano, in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Manado is the provincial capital of north Sulawesi, and has a population of about 250.000. The city is located in the Minahasa region at the northern tip of a long and narrow peninsula, and is a trade center for northern Sulawesi. It’s harbor is exposed to the open sea, and Manado’s commercial port is therefore located in Bitung about one hour drive away.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. The market in Manado harbour. Old man at the market. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Important export articles are sugar, coffee, spice and tobacco. Manado also has an university. A majority of the population belong to the Minahasa people, with a language much like Philippine. There is also a large group of Chinese in the city. Most of the population are Christian.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. Colourful boats in Manado harbour. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The entire city was wiped out during an earthquake in 1844, and was built up from scratch by the Dutch, after this it was known as one of the prettiest towns in all of South East Asia. This is maybe not true today, but Manado is still nice and clean and the population here have some of the highest living standard in Indonesia.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. View towards Manado city from Tinoor on the road to the Minahasa highlands. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

A myth tells about how the first Minahasians descend from Lumimuut, who came up of the ocean to give birth to Toar. Several years later mother and son met again without recognizing each other, they got married and their descendants populated the district. Later both the land and the language were split by the god Muntu Untu by the Watu Pinabetengan stone near Kawangkoan east of Manado.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. A colourful sunset seen from Sunset Cafe. Manado Tua in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

A surplus of rice attracted European traders who sailed to and from the spice islands. The Spanish built a fort here in 1627, but the local rulers decided to throw their guests out in 1643, and asked the Dutch on Ternate for help. Together they drove out the last Spanish soldiers and the Dutch built their own fort in 1658. The Dutch managed to unite the different tribes, who in 1693 won a great victory over their main enemy Bolaang further south. The Minahasians also helped the Dutch to fight riots on Java and other islands, by other Indonesians they were sometimes called “anjing Belanda”, Dutch dogs. The Japanese occupation from 1942 to 1945 led to severe bombing of Manado by the allied forces. The struggle for independence after WW2 also led to a division of the population into pro- and anti-Dutch sentiments, the city was bombed again in 1958 by Indonesian forces.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. Ban Hin Kiong Temple is a popular tourism spot in Manado's China Town. It is a 19th century Buddhist temple. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Manado has no large attractions by itself, except for an interesting museum and an old Buddhist temple from the 19th century, the oldest of it’s kind in eastern Indonesia. A colorful festival is held here every February. The city are also full of monuments in memory of Minahasian and Indonesian heroes. Manado is a great starting point for expeditions to the beautiful landscape in this region, and has several good facilities for visitors, like accommodation, restaurants and entertainment.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Bunaken. Bunaken and Manado Tua seen from airplane, close to Manado's airport. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

This part of Indonesia is famous for it’s brilliant diving conditions, and divers from all over the world come here. The most famous spot is the corral reefs around Bunaken, a marine reserve just a short boat trip from Manado. You can also take a diving course here. The reserve consists of Manado Tua, a volcano that can be seen from Manado, Nain and the Mantehage islands, Pulau Siladen and Pulau Bunaken. Another attraction is the lovely Tondano lake (altitude 600 m), south east of the city. This is a very popular area for hiking and Sunday picnics among the local population.

Indonesia, Sulawesi, Manado. Manado harbour with Manado Tua, an extinct volcano, in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Manado has a modern airport with daily flights to Jakarta and Ujung Pandang. There is also a connection to Ternate by plane. Most of the boats leave from the port in Bitung, a few leave from Manado to for example Tahuna on the Sangihe islands north of Manado.

• North Sulawesi Information Pages travel info, flight and boat schedules
• north-sulawesi.com tourist info
• www.north-sulawesi.org North Sulawesi Tourism Promotion
• SPOT Manado and North Sulawesi
• SPOT Bunaken, Manado Tua and surrounding islands
• NASA Bunaken Marine Reserve

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser nasjonalpark. The Bohorok river continue further down through Bukit Lawang. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Gunung Leuser national park is covering an area of about 9.000 sq km, and Bukit Lawang is today the main point of access to this impressive habitat, which wildlife includes tigers, rhinos, tapirs, elephants, gibbons, reptiles and of course the orangutan. There are more than 380 species of birds and a huge number of flowers, trees and other plants.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser National Park. The orangutan sanctuary of Bukit Lawang is located inside the park. Orangutans can be seen high up in the trees. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Trekking here is very popular, but also somewhat tough physically, as the climate is very humid and hot, and the terrain often steep uphill or downhill. You will need a permit and a guide to trek here, and there are many alternative routes. You can do a one-day trek (which by some is called the “chicken-trek”) or trek for several days deep into the forest, crossing over to the Aceh side where the Gunung Leuser mountain is located, normally ending in Ketambe.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser National Park. The orangutan sanctuary of Bukit Lawang is located inside the park. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

If you have never done this before you should consider to do a one-day trek first, to get a feeling for the conditions. You can also combine a trek with rafting back to Bukit Lawang, a very pleasant end of the day. Remember you should not feed the orangutans you encounter on the way, and not leave any trash behind.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser nasjonalpark. Typical orangutan territory, tropical rainforest. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The price will normally include lunch, bring plenty of water. The guides need to be licensed, but there are a few that are not. Most of the guides speak acceptable English. For a 4-5 day trek you will need good boots, long trousers and some T-shirts. Food, mat and tent will be provided by your guide.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser nasjonalpark, the Bohorok river. From here it is possible to float down the river on a rafting tube. A perfect way to end a hard day of jungle trekking. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

If you don’t feel for a jungle experience there are some alternative walks from Bukit Lawang. 30 minutes or about 2 km south of Bukit Lawang there is a bat cave, it is outside the national park so you don’t need a permit to go there.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser National Park. The river crossng from Bukit Lawang to the park entrance. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Rafting

Tube rafting down the Bohorok river is a popular activity, you can end your trek in the forest in a very refreshing way on top of a tube down the rapids of the river. Or you can rent a tube in Bukit Lawang and float down the river for about 15 km and take the bus back, this will normally take about three hours. This should be done in company with somebody who know the area, especially during the rain season when the river can be quite swollen and dangerous, life jackets are not included in the price. Never tube alone or when the river is flooded, there has been a few accidents!

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Bukit Lawang is a small tourist village at the bank of Bahorok River. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Bukit Lawang is a pleasant getaway from the polluted streets of Medan. The village sits on the eastern outskirts of Gunung Leuser National Park, a huge sanctuary for the flora and fauna of the region, but BL is maybe most famous for the Bohorok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. These attractions has made Bukit Lawang one of the most popular destinations in northern Sumatra, and today the town exists almost only for the purpose of serving the tourists.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser National Park. The river crossng from Bukit Lawang to the park entrance. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Bukit Lawang is located in the Bohorok administrative area, and often only referred to as Bohorok by the Indonesians. The area is typically farmland with rice production and cocoa, palm oil and rubber plantations. Bukit Lawang as a tourist destination started with the orangutan rehabilitation station, but visitors who come here to see the orangutans or trekking in the rainforest keeps the place running today. It now has a large selection of losmen, budget hotels and restaurants on both sides of the river, and a number of organized activities for the visitors.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Coming from Gunung Leuser national park, Bohorok river flows through Bukit Lawang and is the nerve of the town. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

This is not the place to go if you want to avoid tourists and experience the authentically North Sumatra, but easily the most accessible entrance to Gunung Leuser national park.

Upon arrival the bus stops in a small square at the end of the road, here you will find a small tourist office and a ticket office, not to forget the many guides who wait here to offer their service to newcomers. There are some accommodation and a few restaurants here, but the most popular establishments are 15-20 minutes by foot upstream. If you allow one of the guides to bring you to a guest house he will in a way be “tied” to you, if you go on a trek with another guide he will have to pay some money to the first guy.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. Gunung Leuser National Park. The orangutan sanctuary of Bukit Lawang is located inside the park. At the feeding platform. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Orangutan Rehabilitation Center is found to the north of the Bukit Lawang town just within the borders of the Gunung Leuser national park. The feeding takes place at a platform in the forest, an about two kilometer pleasant walk from Bukit Lawang. You will first have to cross the river in a small dugout canoe. This is where most of the treks into the rainforest starts, most people start the day with the 8 o’clock feeding in the morning and then start walking into the forest. Before entering the national park you will need to obtain an access permit which can be obtained from the rangers office in Bukit Lawang, your guide will often arrange this for you. If you plan to go trekking you need to employ a guide to be allowed to enter the park.

Accommodation and food

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. There are no luxurious hotels here, but a large assortment of budget rooms. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

There is an abundance of cheap losmen dotted along the river, there are mainly two areas to choose from; along the river opposite the town and up the river towards the Bohorok Orangutan Rehabilitation Station, where you also will find the most quiet area. Most of the guesthouses have a restaurant, and most of these are pretty standard.

Transport

Buses between Medan’s Pinang Baris bus station and Bukit Lawang depart every half hour between 5.30 am and 6 pm, and the bus will use about three hours. You can also go with a public minibus which is about an hour quicker, and a little bit more expensive. A third alternative is to use a tourist minibus, which can pick you up at your hotel in Medan. They will leave Bukit Lawang for Medan early in the morning, if there is enough demand there will also be tourist buses that will leave for Berastagi and Danau Toba.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. A mosque. People in this area are mostly Muslim. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Money, communications

There are no banks or ATM’s in Bukit Lawang, so make sure you bring enough cash money, there are some moneychangers here, but don’t expect to get a very good rate, you better change before you come here. There is no post office either, but a few post boxes and you can buy stamps from the shops. There is one place with Internet near the bus station, the connection is very slow and the price relatively high. The reason for this is that the nearest internet provider is in Medan. You can find one Telkom Wartel across the river.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Bukit Lawang. There are several bridges like this one which you have to use to cross the river. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Other travel facts

There is a tourist information office close to the bus stop, don’t expect a lot of information though, but it may be worth a visit. On Friday it’s market day in Bukit Lawang and on Sunday in Bohorok. If you want to party wait for the weekend, when you can join the locals at the disco. July and August is the season for durian here, beware of these heavy fruits crashing down from the trees, there are even signs that warn you against this. The climate here is hot and humid, and it can rain a lot.

The best time to visit is during the week, in the weekends you will have to share the place with busloads of Indonesians coming up from Medan, about 96 km southeast of Bukit Lawang.

This article was written before the 2003 flood, some details may not be valid anymore. 239 people were killed, more than 400 houses and 35 hotels and guesthouses were destroyed during the disaster. The site was rebuilt and re-opened again in July 2004.

• Sumatran Orangutan Society
• SPOT – Bukit Lawang close to the center if image

Indonesia, Sumatra. Toba. View of the Toba Lake from the mainland, Parapat side looking north-west. Samosir to the left, this island was created around 30-75.000 years ago. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Lake Toba (or Danau Toba in Indonesian) is a lake and supervolcano, 100 kilometres long and 30 kilometres wide, and 505 metres at its deepest point. Toba is Located in the middle of the northern part of Sumatra with a surface elevation of about 900 metres. It is the largest volcanic lake in the world. In addition it is the site of a supervolcanic eruption that occurred 69,000-77,000 years ago, a massive climate-changing event. This eruption is believed to have been the largest anywhere on Earth in the last 25 million years. According to the Toba catastrophe theory to which some anthropologists and archeologists subscribe, it had global consequences, killing most humans then alive and creating a population bottleneck in Central Eastern Africa and India that affected the genetic inheritance of all humans today.

Lake Toba, satellite view

Geology

The Toba caldera complex consists of four overlapping volcanic craters that adjoin the Sumatran “volcanic front”. The youngest and fourth caldera is the world’s largest Quaternary caldera (100 by 30 kilometres) and intercepts the three older calderas. An estimate of 2,500 to 3,000 km2 of dense-rock equivalent pyroclastic material, known as the Youngest Toba tuff, was blasted from the youngest caldera during one of the largest single eruptions in geologic history. Following the “Youngest Toba tuff eruption”, a typical resurgent dome formed within the new caldera, joining two half-domes separated by a longitudinal graben.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Samosir. The south end of the channel that separates Samosir and the mainland. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

There are at least four cones, four stratovolcanoes and three craters visible in the lake. The Tandukbenua cone on the NW edge of the caldera is relatively lacking in vegetation, suggesting a young age of only several hundred years. Also, the Pusubukit volcano on the south edge of the caldera is solfatarically active.

The Eruption

Indonesia, Sumatra. Samosir. A Batak house is built on stilts, made of wood (without nails) and roofed with sugar palm fibre, or unfortunately today more often rusting corrugated iron. The style vary from region to region, but the basics are the same. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The Toba eruption was the latest of a series of at least three caldera-forming eruptions which have occurred at the volcano, with earlier calderas having formed around 700,000 and 840,000 years ago. The last eruption had an estimated Volcanic Explosivity Index of 8 (described as “mega-colossal”), making it possibly the largest explosive volcanic eruption within the last twenty-five million years.

Bill Rose and Craig Chesner of Michigan Technological University have deduced that the total amount of erupted material was about 2,800 km3 — around 2,000 km3 of ignimbrite that flowed over the ground, and around 800 km3 that fell as ash, with the wind blowing most of it to the west. The pyroclastic flows of the eruption destroyed an area of 20,000 square kilometres, with ash deposits as thick as 600 metres by the main vent.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Toba. View of the Toba Lake from the mainland, Parapat side looking south. Danau Toba occupy an old caldera of a supervolcano that erupted 100.000 years ago. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

To give an idea of its magnitude, consider that although the eruption took place in Indonesia, it deposited an ash layer approximately 15 centimetres thick over the entire Indian subcontinent; at one site in central India, the Toba ash layer today is up to 6 metres thick and parts of Malaysia were covered with 9 m of ashfall. In addition it has been calculated that 10,000 million metric tons of sulfuric acid was ejected into the atmosphere by the event, causing acid rain fallout.

The Toba caldera is the only supervolcano in existence that can be described as Yellowstone’s “bigger” sister. With 2,800 km3 of ejecta, it was an even greater eruption than the supereruption (2,500 km3) of 2.1 million years ago that created the Island Park Caldera in Idaho, USA. The eruption was also about three times the size of the latest Yellowstone eruption of Lava Creek 630,000 years ago. For further comparison, the largest volcanic eruption in historic times, in 1815 at Mount Tambora (Indonesia), ejected the equivalent of around 100 km3 of dense rock and made 1816 the “Year Without a Summer” in the whole northern hemisphere, whilst the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens in Washington State ejected around 1.2 km3 of material.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Parapat. The ferry to Tuk Tuk and Samosir Island depart roughly every hour. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The subsequent collapse formed a caldera that, after filling with water, created Lake Toba. The island in the center of the lake is formed by a resurgent dome.

Though the year may never be precisely determined, the season can: only the summer monsoon could have deposited Toba ashfall in the South China Sea, implying that the eruption took place sometime during the northern summer. The eruption lasted perhaps two weeks, but the ensuing “volcanic winter” resulted in a decrease in average global temperatures by 3 to 3.5 degrees Celsius for several years. Greenland ice cores record a pulse of starkly reduced levels of organic carbon sequestration. Very few plants or animals in southeast Asia would have survived, and it is possible that the eruption caused a planet-wide die-off. There is some evidence, based on mitochondrial DNA, that the human race may have passed through a genetic bottleneck around this time, reducing genetic diversity below what would be expected from the age of the species. According to the Toba catastrophe theory proposed by Stanley H. Ambrose of the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign in 1998, human populations may have been reduced to only a few tens of thousands of individuals by the Toba eruption.

More recent activity

Indonesia, Sumatra. Samosir. A mountain ridge cover most of Samosir from south to north, and gives many opportunities for trekking. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Smaller eruptions have occurred at Toba since. The small cone of Pusukbukit has formed on the southwestern margin of the caldera and lava domes. The most recent eruption may have been at Tandukbenua on the northwestern caldera edge, since the present lack of vegetation could be due to an eruption within the last few hundred years.

Some parts of the caldera have experienced uplift due to partial refilling of the magma chamber, for example pushing Samosir Island and the Uluan Peninsula above the surface of the lake. The lake sediments on Samosir Island show that it has been uplifted by at least 450 metres since the cataclysmic eruption. Such uplifts are common in very large calderas, apparently due to the upward pressure of unerupted magma. Toba is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Large earthquakes have occurred in the vicinity of the volcano more recently, notably in 1987 along the southern shore of the lake at a depth of 11 km. Other earthquakes have occurred in the area in 1892, 1916, and 1920-1922.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Samosir. The southern bay of Tuk Tuk with Samosir in the background. Tuk Tuk is a small peninsula, and part of Samosir island. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Lake Toba lies near the Great Sumatran fault which runs along the centre of Sumatra in the Sumatra Fracture Zone. The volcanoes of Sumatra and Java are part of the Sunda Arc, a result of the northeasterly movement of the Indo-Australian Plate which is sliding under the eastward-moving Eurasian Plate. The subduction zone in this area is very active: the seabed near the west coast of Sumatra has had several major earthquakes since 1995, including the 9.3 2004 Indian Ocean Earthquake and the 8.7 2005 Sumatra earthquake, the epicenters of which were around 300 km from Toba.

On 12 September 2007, a magnitude 8.5 Earthquake shook the ground in Sumatra and was felt in the Indonesian capital, Jakarta. The epicenter for this earthquake was not as close as the previous two earthquakes, but it was in the same vicinity.

People

Most of the people who live around Lake Toba are ethnically Bataks. Traditional Batak houses are noted for their distinctive roofs (which curve upwards at each end, as a boat’s hull does) and their colorful decor.

Indonesia, Sumatra. Samosir. Simanindo on the northern tip of Samosir is the cultural center of Samosir, with a museum. Batak dance performance. Batak dancer wearing traditional Batak textiles. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Flora and fauna

Flora organisms include various types of phytoplankton, emerged macrophytes, floating macrophytes, and submerged macrophytes.
Fauna include several variations of zooplankton and benthos animals. Lake Toba offers a nurturing environment for fish.

Source: Wikipedia
Released under CC- BY-SA

Javan rhino in Ujung Kulon, 1930

On a densely populated and highly modernized island of Java, some people are still facing difficult and hard life. With small and no steady income to sustain their economy, people in Kampong Cegog must work very hard to make the ends meet. Kampong Cegog is located in the village of Rancapinang; sub-district Sumur, regency of Pandeglang, Banten.

Nestled in a hilly area, it is the last settlement before entering the south part of Ujung Kulon National Park, a world heritage site, sanctuary of the last Javan rhinoceros.

Labuan, approximately 3-hour drive southwest from Jakarta, is the town where most people start their journey to Ujung Kulon National Park. Public transportations connect Labuan to villages near the Park, including Taman Jaya, the village where the mountain trek to Cegog awaits.

Mountain Trek

To reach Cegog, there is a trek across the Honje Mountain (approximately 400 m above sea level) from the village of Taman Jaya in the northwest. This trek starts from a relatively flat area of paddy fields and several small settlements. After around 45 minutes of easy walk there is a house for resting that marks the beginning of Honje Mountain. The owner of this house will welcome or politely offer travelers to stop by and have a drink. After a brief pause, the route continues across a small creek and into a denser vegetation of palm trees and rattans. This passage is about 1 meter wide with fallen leaves covering the forest floor and some roots. In the rainy season walking through this route becomes more fun with slippery, or ankle-deep mud, but luckily there are enough trees and hanging roots to hold on to, make sure to grab the ones without thorns, though. Although the sun is fiercely beating down on the landscape, the forest canopy provides enough cover along the way. Throughout the trek, there are some flat segments, but there are numerous steep uphill climbs. Getting used to this terrain, residents from settlements on either side of the Honje Mountain often use this route to travel between villages.

Villagers carrying fish and other goods travel along this route to go to and from Cegog. Sometimes, travelers will have to yield or squeeze in order to let other travelers pass in a narrow passage. There is a point called “the tree of affection” where people must “affectionately” hug this tree when passing, for this large tree grow in a narrow hill with slippery floor and deep ravines on both sides. Afterwards there is a resting place by the river, stopping in this spot surrounded by lush green tropical vegetations with birds’ song after a long walk is truly a remarkable experience. A quick face-rinse with water from the river brings back a spark of previously fading spirit. After a long 6-hour walk and about 1.5 liters of drinking water, signs of civilization begin to emerge. Small shelters, sounds of children playing in a distant, and smoke from the kitchens mark the existence of Kampong Cegog settlements. It is the other side of Honje Mountain!

Kampong Life

This settlement is located between two major river streams, Surian river and Cegog river; hence the name Kampong Cegog. Currently, this settlement of approximately 900 people is relying on agriculture for daily subsistence. Those who have farmland grow rice in their paddy fields, but those who don’t encroach the neighboring National Park, clearing parts of the forest for slash and burn agriculture. Most of these people do not have other options, as they sold their property to buy motorcycles and televisions. With motorcycles to maintain and no land to farm, these people find that household economy is definitely not getting any better. Fortunately, The National Park authority sets aside a stretch of coastal area as a traditional utilization zone where villagers can harvest natural-growing seaweed and sell it to local buyers. This provides Cegog villagers with an alternative way of generating income. Occasionally, Cegog villagers can sell cloves for a reasonable price. Only during that time, they receive good income.

Strangely enough, despite hard and difficult life they face in Cegog, almost all Cegog residents are reluctant to move out. In fact, many outsiders marry Cegog residents and decide to stay in Cegog for good.

Mr. Suganda is one of the residents originating from a village outside Cegog. He used to work for a resort on Peucang Island in Ujung Kulon National Park called Wanawisata Alam Hayati. He made a good living, that he was able to build a brick house and furnished it. Unfortunately, the company’s financial condition now necessitates many employees, including Mr. Suganda, to be laid off. Now, Mr. Suganda must rely on income from opening a small provision shop in front of his house besides farming. Luckily, he also owns a complete set of Video player with sound system. He, then, opens a home cinema where adults and children can view movies, music videos, etc. Entrance fee costs only Rp. 500,- per person.

Unlike Mr. Suganda, most Cegog residents do not own brick houses. Most of their houses are made of woods with woven bamboos as walls. Typical houses are stilt-houses built about 60 cm above the ground supported with several wood pilings. They install either wood planks, or flattened / split small bamboos for floors, and normally have clay tiles for roof. Village’s elementary school is not in a better condition. The walls of the school building came down, leaving only the roof standing. This is not a safe environment for school children, so they have to find other locations. Some good-willed residents offer and turn their porches into classroom where children can study with their teachers. Later on, the students decide to bring building materials and slowly, piece by piece rebuild their school.

Not everyone in Cegog owns in-house toilets and bathrooms. Open-air bathing facilities are available in the nearby rivers. Bathing areas upstream, washing downstream, and toilets further downstream. Distance and several big boulders separate men and women’s sections.

Difficult access is the main constraint for Cegog’s economy. Main access road connecting Cegog with nearby villages is made of loose gravels, stones, dirt roads, and several river crossings. To make life easier, these river crossings are equipped with so-called “bridges” constructed from coconut trunks laid together traversing the rivers. With some balancing skills, these coconut trunk bridges serve the purpose quite well. Unfortunately, there are some crevices between the trunks wide enough for motorcycle’s tire to get stuck in. Some river crossings do not even have anything at all. This road condition makes motorized travel using motorcycles or pick up trucks treacherous in the dry season, and almost impossible in the rainy season. For this reason, crops and other products have to be transported manually using “pikul” –a bamboo pole with loads at both ends carried on the shoulder- most of the time. Buyers purchase crops at a very low price from Cegog villagers, as they have to pay quite a bit for transporting products out of Cegog. With this small income, Cegog villagers will have to purchase goods from outside for a high price, for these goods were also transported to Cegog the same way.

From 6 O’clock In the evening, the noise from diesel-fueled generators is heard throughout the settlement. People pay certain fee for maintenance and fuel to operate these generators, as government’s electricity has not reached Kampong Cegog. Two years ago, these people used kerosene lanterns and solar panels in their houses. At 11 O’clock at night, these generators are shut down right after the home cinema finishes, then, it is peace and quiet once more.

The Surroundings

Despite difficult access, Kampong Cegog is worth visiting, as it is surrounded by rugged, yet beautiful terrain consisting of Honje mountain range, coastal forest and sandy beach. This remote place is virtually untouched by tourism (or any other) developments. Javan gibbons (Hylobates molloch) are the prima donna of the Honje mountain. These elusive primates with gray-furred body and dark face are mainly active in the morning, swinging from tree to tree. Nature lovers will also enjoy diverse vegetations of this typical lowland rainforest in the Honje Mountain. Difficult trek with several steep climbs rewards travelers with the sights of interesting plant species such as strangling fig (Ficus sp) and Kiara tree. Crystal clear rivers, occasional sightings of primates, and continuous birds’ singing contribute to the characteristic serenity of the tropical rain forest along the way.

West of Cegog is decorated with beautiful coastal landscape of rocky and sandy beaches. Coastal vegetation consisting of Butun (Barringtonia sp), Ketapang (Cattappa sp), and Pandanus trees accompany the long beach stretch. These coastal vegetations and several caves provide comfortable shelters in otherwise hot and exposed beaches. Rocky beaches retain water in tide pools. These hollow rocks are filled with seawater during high tide, and retains water in low tide. Some species of corals, along with seaweeds, are living in these tide pools, as water is always available. However, rocky beaches are often unfriendly to disoriented boats. Numerous fishing vessels met their demise in this stretch of hard rocky beach. After 3.5 km of rocky beach plus 4 km of sandy beach, another trek leading back to the village of Taman Jaya will take travelers through a less mountainous route with similar tropical forest cover.

Other than being the safe haven for the last 50 of endangered Javan rhinoceros, her exquisite natural beauty qualifies Ujung Kulon National Park to receive World Heritage inscription by UNESCO in 1992. Hard working people of kampong Cegog are living next to one of the world’s most valuable treasures: Nature, the essence of a living planet.

For travel to Cegog or Ujung Kulon National Park, contact KAGUM community eco-tourism. Village of Taman Jaya, Sub-district Sumur, Pandeglang Banten. Call KAGUM at 62 868 12113378 c/o Warca Dinata (kagum@hotmail.com)

Text By Adhi Rachmat Hariyadi

• SPOT Ujung Kulon
• SPOT Krakatau in lower half of photo

Java, Central Java. Prambanan is a ninth century Hindu temple compound in Central Java, Indonesia, (Bjorn Grotting)

At the boundary between Yogyakarta and Surakarta there are several temples which are scattered within a distance not more than 1 km. It is interesting to note that these temples belong to a sacred place of two religions: Hinduism and Buddhism. The temples were constructed between the eighth century and the ninth century A.D. Prambanan, the name of the complex of these temples, is a beautiful and fertile region.

Prambanan

In ancient time, it was the place where the capital of a kingdom now known as “Keraton Boko” stood. But it is a pity that the ruins of the palace can not give any hint about the existence of the kingdom and those who had reigned there. A clearer hint is from Kalasan’s inscription which was written in “pra nagari” characters, dated from A.D. 778. This was clarified in the inscription of Raja Balitung from the year of A.D. 907. Raja Balitung’s inscription mentions the pedigree of the kings who reigned in that period. It was the period when the Sanjaya dynasty reigned. Their religion was Hinduism.

Simultaneously, during that very period, the dynasty of Sailendra, whose religion was Buddhism, was also blooming. This Sailendra dynasty had been closely related to the kingdom of Sriwijaya in Palembang. At that particular time, Buddhism reached its peak and left many grand monuments which still stand to the present time.

Prambanan temple, as it is known nowadays, is a name given to the complex of several sanctuaries of Siwa. In fact, it is more accurate to call it Siwa’s temple (Candi Siwa) according to the real character of the temples. Some of the sanctuaries in the complex have been restored, but most of them are in ruins.

The effort of restorating these Candi Siwa is still continuing and has produced a fantastic monumental masterpiece which we can enjoy. Visiting the complex of Candi Siwa at Prambanan will set our imaginations loose, and the impression is fantastic or amazing!

The Complex of Candi Siwa

There are 237 temples at the complex of Candi Siwa, either big or small. But the majority of them have deteriorated, what is left are only scattered stones.

A statue of Siwa

This complex of the sanctuaries can be divided into 3 groups. The first group belongs to the small temples which have a resemblance in form and located near the gate. It’s called Candi Perwara. The second consists of the other temples which are smaller and have various positions and size. The third group, considered as the central buildings, has 3 temples that differ in form. The biggest temple is enclosed on either side by 2 smaller temples with the same form. Apparently, each temple is built to form the corresponding buildings. This would be clear if we see the statues in those temples.

The central temple at the complex of Prambanan is Candi Siwa, or widely known as the temple of Rorojonggrang. It is called Candi Siwa because in that temple we find a statue of Siwa which is big and has essential meaning, which signifies that Siwa is a God greatly glorified in the belief of Trimurti (Trimurti’s faith). Trimurti is the worship of a Trinity of gods: Siwa, Wisnu and Brahma.

The most important of Siwa’s statues is found in the biggest room of the central temple. In the other smaller rooms we see the statue Of Siwa as Mahaguru (Supreme master), the statue of Ganesha, a god with an elephant head symbolizing happiness, and the statute of Durga Mahisasuramardani, the spouse of Siwa as the ruler of Universe. Both the temple and the statue of Siwa have an important role.

It seems likely that during that period, the Hinduism followers belonged to the sect Siwa. The statue of Siwa was constructed as the greatest statue among the others. It is 3 metres high and is in a standing position as if meditating. The base of the statue is in the form of a lotus flower which could hold the water with flowers used to purify that statue. The used water and flower which are considered to possess sacred powers, are poured through a dragon’s mouth located at the side of the lower part. A vase is used to keep the sacred water which is much sought by the Hindus and the devotees because of its magic power.

The symbol of a skull and a sickle at the crown, the third eye on his forehead, and the four hands holding Siwa’s symbols: a rosary, a feather duster and a trident, attributed to this Siwa’s statue, show the existence of Siwa as Mahadewa (Supreme God). The description of Siwa as Mahadewa is also meant to describe that the king of Balitung was a reincarnated Siwa. So, when he died, a temple was built to commorate him as Siwa.

Durga Mahisasuramardani

Besides the statue of Siwa, there is another interesting statue, i.e the statue of Durga Mahisasuramardani. known also as Rorojonggrang. This narne is derived from a folk legend of the people living around Prambanan. The Durga is designed standing on a cow, pulling out the soul of a defeated gigantic demon from the cow’s body. Durga is a symbol of death, that’s why Durga’s statue is also widely worshipped. This very statue is also meant as a description of the King Balitung’s wife.

If, at the start, we enter the Candi Siwa from the east side and keep on walking along the gallery of the temple, we will see the temple walls. This relief describes the story of Ramayana. If we want to read the relief, we should turn to the left side after entering from the east gate. There is 41 frames of Ramayana’s story in Candi Siwa. The story itself could be summarized as follow:

The God Wisnu is asked to descend to the world at the request of kings of this world. For his duty as a protector of the world, Wisnu is incarnated in Rama, a knight of Ayodya’s kingdom, and son of King Dasarata. Rama, who now is the incarnation of Wisnu, is requested by a Brahmin called Wiswamitra to kill giants who are regularly disturbing the Brahmins. Rama is successful in killing those annoying giants, including Tataka, a giantess. After eliminating those disturbers, in accordance with Wiswamitra’s suggestion, Rama joins a competition in which the winner will be awarded a beautiful princess. This princess, named Sinta, is a daughter of Wiswamitra’s friend, King Janaka. Rama wins the competition in pulling the sacred bow of King Janaka, so he has right to make Sinta his wife. Then Rama goes back to Ayodya. On the way to Ayodya, Rama is intercepted by Paracurama, but Rama defeats him. After his arrival in Ayodya, Rama will be crowned as a king, as a successor of his father. But Kekayi, the second wife of King Dasarata, asks her husband to fulfill his previously made promise to her. As the King promised, it’s her son, Bharata, who will be king. Also, Rama is to be banished into the forest, that’s the request of Kekayi. Rama fulfills Kekayi’s wishes sincerely and Bharata is crowned as the new king. Dasarata, who is left by Rama, is very sad, becomes sick and finally dies.

In his isolation in the forest, Rama is accompanied by his younger brother Laksamana, and Rama’s wife Sinta. There they come across a giantess named Cupanaka, who falls in love with Rama. But Rama spurns her as also does Laksamana. Cupanaka is furious and tells this matter to her brother, Rahwana, the king of giants. When Rahwana comes to Rama’s place, he sees Sinta and falls in love with her. With various tricks, Rahwana kidnaps Sinta successfully and flees to Alengka. Rama and Laksamana try to find her and kill Rahwana.

During their efforts to find Sinta, they meet two monkeys who are having a quarrel. Those two monkey’s brothers are Sugriwa and Subali, who are also known as Walin. The two monkey’s brothers are fighting for a throne and a princess called Tara. Rama succeeds in helping Sugriwa to defeat Subali and as the repayment for the service, Sugriwa helps Rama to find Sinta. Then Sugriwa helps Rama to find Sinta. Sugriwa sends a white monkey named Hanoman to find out where Sinta is. Hanoman finally knows that Sinta is in the garden of Rahwana’s palace. The white monkey talks to Sinta, and in order to prove that he has met with Sinta, Sinta gives him a ring to be delivered to Rama. Afterwards, Hanoman goes back to see Rama, Laksamana and Sugriwa. Then he tells them all of his experiences. Rama becomes very furious and decides to attack Alengka with the assistance of the whole monkey troops, the followers of Sugriwa.

The story of Rama’s attack to Alengka can be found at the temple of Brahma (Candi Brahma), which is located at the south of Candi Siwa and is the main temple. Candi Brahma has only one entrance, as well as one cella containing the statue of the god, Brahma. This Brahma statue is described with four heads. It’s beatiful but unfortunately it has been damaged. The continuation of the Ramayana story is inscribed at the wall of the temple’s inner chamber. It tells about the war of Rama and Laksamana, helped by the monkey troops, against Rahwana who kidnaps Sinta. Rahwana is helped by his brother, Kumbakarna, a gigantic demon. Kumbakarna is killed by hundreds of monkeys. Finally, Rama kills Rahwana with his bow and arrow. Thus Rama meets again with his wife. This story in fact describes the crushing of great evil which destroys life. The great evil is symbolized by King Rahwana. Rama, as incarnation of Vishnu, succeeds in maintaining the world’s peace.

The other temple nearby Candi Siwa is the temple of Wisnu (Candi Wisnu). Candi Wisnu is located at the north of Candi Siwa, and has the same size as Candi Brahma. The only chamber found in this temple contains the statue of the god Wisnu. Here, Wisnu is described as having four hands, with a club, an oyster and a cakra, which is specifically attributed to Wisnu.

The relief found at the wall of Candi Wisnu is the story of Kresnayana. The Kresnayana relief has 12 frames. In fact, Kresna is another reincarnation of the god Wisnu, after Rama. Kresna has a brother, called Balarama. They are to be killed by the demonic giantess, named Putana. But Kresna succeeds in killing Putana. The other relief describes the fight between Balarama and the demonic giant, Pralemba. Pralemba, who is every time killed by Balarama, is able to live again. At the end, Kresna tells his brother to cut off the head of Pralemba, so it can not be reunited and will never live anymore.

As an incarnation of Vishnu, the preserver of the world’s peace, Kresna has also to save the cattle of the shepherds from the annoyance of Arista, a giant. Kresna also saves the little shepherds who got into the mouth of a snake-dragon, since they thought it to be a cave. When the dragon’s mouth is closed in order to swallow those little shepherds, Kresna, who is among them, starts to enlarge his body. He enlarges it into such a huge being that the dragon’s mouth blows up and the shepherds are saved. In the last relief, we see two Brahmins doing a ritual sacrifice.

Java, Central Java, Prambanan. Candi Shiva Mahadeva, Loro Jonggrang, in the background. (Bjorn Grotting)

To complete the three big temples (Candi Siwa, Brahma, Wisnu), 3 more temples was built directly in front of them. Precisely in front of Candi Siwa, is Nandi’s temple (Candi Nandi), where we can find a chamber containing the statue of Nandi’s cow, the vehicle of Siwa. That’s why this temple is named after the statue of Nandi. Besides it, there is also the other statues, that is the statue of Chandra, the god of the moon. Chandra stands on his carriage pulled by 10 horses, and the statue of the god of the sun or Dewa Surya, also standing on a carriage pulled by 7 horses.

Facing Candi Brahma is the temple of the swan (Candi Angsa). In the chamber of this temple we can not find any statue. But it seems likely that there was once a statue of a swan, since this animal is the vehicle of Brahma, the god. And based on this assumption, the temple is named Candi Angsa.

The temple in front of Candi Wisnu is the temple of Garuda (Candi Gaiwda), although there is not any statue of Garuda in the room of this temple. What we see is only a smaller statue of Siwa, comparable to the one in the main temple. This Siwa’s statue is found under Candi Garuda. In fact, there should be a statue of Garuda in the cella, since it is the vehicle of Wisnu. This vehicle of Wisnu is a big bird which has similarities to a human being in some aspects and has a beak, two hands, spurred legs and a tail just like a common bird.

There are two rather big temples located at the north and south of the 6 previous temples. These two particular temples are called Candi Apit, because they enclose the temples that form the main part in the complex at both ends. Although there are chambers in Candi Apit, we can not find any statue in them. Up to the present time, the function of these two temples is not known.

The other temples are Candi Perwara. There are a great number of these temples, but most of them are still in ruins. Some that have been reconstructed look beautiful and magnificent. Just imagine, if all of them could be rebuilt in the future, how beautiful the complex of Candi Siwa-Prambanan would be!

Outside the complex of Candi Siwa, there are several temples belonging to the monument of Buddhism. The most important of them are: Candi Kalasan, Candi Sari, Candi Sewu, Candi Lumbung, Candi Plaosan and Candi Sojiwan. A strange thing about these temples is that they surround the Candi Siwa within the radius of not more than 1 km.

Posted with permission from www.arkeologi.net

Bali, Gianyar, Yeh Pulu. The relief tells stories about daily life on Bali about 1000 years ago. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

For most people who visit Bali Yeh Pulu remains a well hidden secret. This may not be a grand attraction, but the site is one of Bali’s oldest and contain some of the most mysterious and important sculptures from it’s time, Yeh Pulu is therefore of great importance to the Balinese. Like the nearby Goa Gajah this was probably an hermitage, not a temple, probably from the 13th century.

Bali, Gianyar, Yeh Pulu. The relief is 25 meter long and 2 meter high. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Yeh is the Balinese name for water, which is an important substance in Balinese culture and religion. Pulu is the name of a stone water container. Yeh Pulu is a 25 meter long and 2 meter high relief with figures that mainly describes daily life on Bali at that time.

The relief was for a long period buried under volcanic ash and vegetation, but luckily the sculptures were intact when excavated in 1925. Except the sculpture of Ganesh with the elephant head there are no directly religious motives here, even if some scientists argues that the relief symbolizes certain Hindu legends. Opposite the relief is a sacred pool with fish and a small temple.

Bali, Gianyar, Yeh Pulu. A Pemangku, a holy old woman who watches over and maintains the site. Behind her the statue of Ganesh with the elephant head. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

On the site you will be met by an old, holy woman called “pemangku”. Her job is to clean and maintain the relief and the statue of Ganesh, and to function as a guide. For a small donation she dispenses some holy water on your head, which will bring you good luck, and also explains what the different figures depicts.

The site can be difficult to find, if you drive from Goa Gajah towards the Bedulu village you will see a small, insignificant sign after a few hundred meters with the text “Villa Yeh Pulu” and “Relief Yeh Pulu” to the right. Drive down this road, then left and then right again. You will pass a small village that is also called Yeh Pulu and finally reach the stair leading down to the relief. The stair is 300 meters long, following the steep terrain.

Bali, Gianyar, Yeh Pulu. A sacred pool and a small, newer temple. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

A pleasant alternative is to walk from Goa Gajah through the rice fields (see Bedulu). This is a scenic walk, but it can be hard to find the correct path, so it is advised to rent a local guide from Goa Gajah.

If you like to take a rest after the visit here you can relax in Made’s Cafe at the top of the stairs and enjoy the beautiful scenery. There are no annoying hawkers here.

• SPOT Southern Bali

Java, Central Java, Borobodur. Borobudur is a 9th-century Buddhist monument near Magelang, Central Java. Stupas with the mount Merapi volcano in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The largest Buddhist monument in the world is located 42 kilometers northwest of Yogyakarta. It was built sometimes between the years 750-850 AD, during the Sailendra dynasty’s rule on Java. The name probably origins from the Sanskrit words “Vihara Buddha Ur”, meaning something like “Buddhist monastery on the hill”.

Java, Central Java, Borobodur. Borobudur is a 9th-century Buddhist monument near Magelang, Central Java. Borobodur is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

About one hundred years after it’s completion a violent eruption of the nearby Merapi volcano covered the entire temple in volcanic ash. Nearly a thousand years should pass before it was discovered again. At the same time as the occurence of this disaster almost all of central Java, of still unknown reasons, was evacuated. Other reasons for the neglect was that Buddhism on Java had to give way for Hinduism, as well as the constant changes of power on Java.

Java, Central Java, Borobodur. Borobudur has six square platforms topped by three circular platforms. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Borobodur was rediscovered in 1814, and the entire construction was uncovered during the following years. Unfortunately this lead to decline and plundering; large amounts of stones and sculptures disappeared. The Dutch started a restoration project in 1907, but it soon became obvious that the monument’s foundations were too weak. In 1973 a new project supported by UNESCO finally managed to stop the decline. More than 700 workers used more than ten years to take apart, restore and reassemble more than 1.3 million stone bricks. At the same time a new foundation was built that should support the heavy monument, some 60.000 cubic meters of stone, and also prevent erosion.

Java, Central Java, Borobodur. Borobudur has six square platforms topped by three circular platforms. A main dome is located at the top center. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The temple is located in the geometrical center of the many nearby mountains. It is inspired by old Indian architecture, and it’s design again supposedly inspired the building of monuments like Angkor Wat in Cambodia 300 years later. Borobodur consist of eight terraces built on a 118 times 118 meter base, the five lowest terraces are square, the upper three circular. The upper circle is crowned by a large stupa in the center. By starting to walk clockwise from the base in the east end all the sculptures and carvings will tell the story of the Buddhist universe 1.000 years ago. This is a 4.8 km long walk, and in this heat maybe only for the very interested.

Java, Central Java, Borobodur. The three upper circular terraces carries 72 stupas, of which most contains a Buddha statue. The mount Merapi volcano in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Somewhat in the shadow of Borobodur is the two temples Candi Pawon 1.5 km east of and Candi Mendut 2 km east of Borobodur. Especially Candi Mendut contains some impressing statues. Borobodur is easily accessible from Yogyakarta, where buses depart frequently for the monument, or you can rent a car with a driver to take you there. The inevitable “mob” of souvenir sellers and guides is the first you will see when arriving. A good guide can be helpful but not necessary, there is no problem walking up to the temple alone. There’s a great view from the top of the monument, but bring some water, it can be quite hot. Several hotels and restaurants are located here.

• SPOT Yogya and surrounding area

Sumatra, Aceh, Banda Aceh. Beach just outside Banda Aceh, (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Aceh is the northernmost province on Sumatra and in Indonesia, the provincial capital is Banda Aceh with a population of approx. 150.000. The province is rich on resources, mainly oil and natural gas. The most important agricultural products are rice, coconuts, rubber, tea and coffee. Aceh has because of it’s location always been one the first points of contact with foreigners, with both positive and negative consequences

Indian, European and Arabic visitors have all had great influence through religion and culture. The location by the Malacca strait has also for periods led to intensive trade and high economic growth. Buddhism came to Aceh with Indian traders in the 7th century, while Islam was introduced by Arabic and Indian Muslims in the 13th century. Aceh is today considered to be the province in Indonesia where Islam has the strongest position.

Sumatra, Aceh. Passing the northernmost point on mainland Sumatra and mainland Indonesia. North of here is some small islands, next stop India. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The years from 1604 to 1637 under the rule of sultan Iskandar Muda became a golden age for Aceh, and the region grew to include parts of the Malaysian peninsula and eastern Sumatra. Their independence became a big problem for the Dutch, who declared war in 1873 (the Aceh war 1873-1878). With a military force of 10.000 men they finally conquered Banda Aceh, but suffered great losses. In a guerilla war that lasted until 1903 they lost thousands of men (see Facts about Sumatra). The Dutch occupants however never felt safe for sabotage actions as long as they stayed in the province.

The arrival of the Japanese in 1942 was first saluted, but the sentiments quickly changed when the Acehnese never met any respect from the new occupants.

Sumatra, Aceh. Passing the northernmost point on mainland Sumatra and mainland Indonesia. North of here is some small islands, next stop India. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

In 1951 Aceh was merged with North Sumatra, with the local government in Medan. To find themselves together with the Christian Batak people were not applauded, and the leader of the Islamic Party, Daud Beureueh, declared Aceh as an independent Islamic Republic in 1953. The standoff were partially solved in 1961 when the central government granted Aceh it’s own provincial status with more autonomy. During his rule president Suharto controlled the province with thousands of soldiers, but lately a strong freedom movement has grown to a point where Aceh again is fighting for independence. It is said, maybe rightly so, that Jakarta is emptying the province of it’s large natural resources, without giving much in return to Aceh’s own population.

The Aceh population is a mix of native Acehnese, Indonesians, Arabs, Indians, Chinese, Gayo and several groups of indigenous people. The art and craftsmanship traditions are therefore strong and varied, examples of what is produced are gold and silver wear of good quality, woven textiles and embroided textiles. The music are often played on a three stringed instrument called “arbab” and bamboo flutes.

Banda Aceh's Grand Mosque was built around 12th century

The provincial capital of Banda Aceh is clearly the largest and most lively city in the region. The city has a mix of old and grandiose architecture from the golden days and modern buildings. The maybe most famous landmark here is the Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman mosque in the southern part of the city, behind the mosque is a large market. Most of the hotels and restaurants are located in the northern part. North of Banda Aceh is the beautiful Pulau Weh island, many come to Aceh just to visit this island with it’s lovely beaches and good diving conditions.

The 2004 tsunami helped trigger a peace agreement between the GAM (Free Aceh Movement) and the Indonesian government, and tourists are starting to return.

• SPOT Pulau Weh north of Banda Aceh. The next island to the north of some size are the Indian Nicobar island

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung. There are 22 temples in the complex. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

At the foot of the great Gunung Agung mountain sits the most sacred of all Balinese temples; Pura Besakih. A more spectacular location for this huge temple complex would be hard to find. If you are lucky to visit on a clear day you can see Gunung Agung (3.142 m), a background that can give anyone a religious feeling. There has been a temple here for more than one thousand years, it is first mentioned in an inscription from 1007 BC.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung. There are 22 temples in the complex. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Today’s role as the “mother temple” were achieved during the 15th century, when Bali became independent from Java and got it’s own ruler; Batu Renggong. He ordered the construction of nine temples, of which Besakih was the central one. Since then there has been continuous expansions and Besakih now consists of about 30 different smaller temples.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung, is the most important, the largest and holiest temple on Bali. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The largest temple is Pura Penataran Agung, which has a large shrine in honor of the holy Hindu trinity Brahma, Wisnu and Shiva. Symbols of this trinity can be found in temples all over Bali. The most important ceremony in Besakih is called Eka Dasa Rudra, which is held once every hundred years according to the Balinese calendar, that is 115 years after our calendar. Last time, in 1963, it had to be cancelled due to a major eruption of Gunung Agung.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih. A stairway leads up to a split gate. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

About 2.000 people lost their lives during this eruption, but miraculously Besakih was almost undamaged. A new ceremony were held in 1979, this time with more success.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

The site is open daily, try to visit early in the morning before the mist is too dense. The best time to visit will probably be during one of the many ceremonies, when hundreds of Hindus in lovely traditional cloths and carrying offerings meets to honor the gods.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung. There are 22 temples in the complex. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Even if the Besakih complex is huge, each single building is not so impressive on it’s own. In front of the entrance you will find the inevitable souvenir stalls, where you can by a sarong which you need to be allowed inside, or you can rent one by the entrance.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. The Mother Temple of Besakih, or Pura Besakih, on the slopes of Mount Agung, is the most important, the largest and holiest temple on Bali. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Many so-called guides will offer their service, it is perfectly ok to say no, in any case agree about the price in advance. It is no problem to explore the site on your own, but be aware that most of the temples are closed for entrance by none-Hindus.

Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. Bali, Karangasem, Besakih. A small statue along the road to Besakih. Rice fields in the background. (Photo Bjorn Grotting)

Besakih is a good starting point for a hike to the top of Gunung Agung, you can hire a guide for the walk here. There are no high standard hotels around Besakih, but you will find some restaurants and simple accommodation.

• SPOT Northeast Bali